“Oh Bikaner, why have you been hiding all this time? Did you get overshadowed by too many famous siblings?”

A few months back if you had asked me about Rajasthan, I would have mentioned places like Jaisalmer, Jaipur, Udaipur, Jodhpur or Pushkar. However at this point, Bikaner tops my list for places to visit in Rajasthan and this post will tell you why.

What’s the first thing that comes to your mind when someone says Bikaner?

I bet it’s either Namkeen, or sweets, or the famous rat temple. Blame it on Bikaji namkeen wala (the largest Bhujia manufacturer in the world), or Bikaner Mithai wala (one of the most famous mithai shops), or the shock factor associated with the rat temple, but people don’t think beyond these three things when someone talks about this city.

Well, these are the same things that people mentioned I told them that I was visiting Bikaner and I arrived here with these same images on my mind. Little did I know that I was about to get blown away by the Bikaner’s art, culture, architecture, palaces and the royal life.

It’s a good thing that Bikaner sometimes gets ignored because it has still managed to retain its quaint and offbeat charm. What’s even better is that a visit to Bikaner gave me a stronger flavor of Rajasthan’s Royal life, as compared to its siblings.

In case you’ve been crushing on my Instagram pictures from Bikaner (#SonalinBikaner), I’m going to do you a favor and NOT let my experiences remain a secret. Now that I have sold the Red city as a travel destination to you, let me share exactly what you can do here when you visit.

 

Things to do in Bikaner, Rajasthan

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1) Admire Junagarh Fort’s Magnificent Interiors

 

Visiting Junagarh Fort is one of the most obvious things to do in Bikaner and honestly, I was not really interested in it. I had already seen this fort from the outside and I expected it to be like many other forts in India that I have already seen already.

My last day in Bikaner was excessively hot and someone suggested it was the perfect opportunity to visit Junagarh Fort because I will mostly be indoors. With little or no expectations, I arrived here with my friend Deepti and our jaws literally dropped as we explored this palace.

Junagarh Fort has got to be one of the best-maintained palaces that I have seen from the inside. There are themed areas – white, blue, red, gold colorful and what not. Bikaner’s ruler – Raja Rai Singh, built it in the 15^th century and each generation from then added a section to this fort.

My favorite part here was a section called Badal Mahal, which was blue from the inside. It was designed to depict rain for royal children because it hardly ever rained in Bikaner.

2) Visit the Camel Farm and See Baby Camels

If you think camels are cute, wait till you see baby camels. The National Research Centre on Camel is India’s only camel breeding farm. I had only seen brown camels but here I saw black and white ones too!

The best time to visit this place is from 3 pm to 4 pm because that’s when a massive number of camels return back to the farm. You can opt for a camel ride or even buy things that are made out of camel milk.

I tried camel milk kulfi (Kulfi is Indian ice cream), which was a little too heavy for me.

3) Explore Bikaner’s Old Town on “Merchant’s trail”

Exploring Bikaner’s old town was one of the best things that I did here. This part of the city is the reason why Bikaner is the Red City of Rajasthan because most of it is built using red sandstones.

The Merchant’s trail starts at Rampuria Haveli and takes you around Bikaner’s old town, Jain temple and you will get to witness some of the most interesting sights.

While I was in Bikaner, I explored this area twice – one on a horse carriage and the other on foot. I’d personally recommend you explore by walking too because the streets tend to get crowded.

4) Check out Rampuria Haveli – the pride of Bikaner

Rampuria Haveli is what Eiffel Tower is for Paris or the Empire State Building for the New York City. Often called “the pride of Bikaner”, Rampuria Haveli proudly stands in the middle of the old town.  This majestic haveli was constructed in the 15th century for Balujee Chalva.

If you do the Merchant’s trail, you will start at Rampuria Haveli. This Haveli is the highlight of this area and deserves a separate mention.

Honestly, this Haveli is unlike any other that I have seen in India because of a very strong influence of Victorian architecture. It looks like someone has plucked it out of an old school British movie and dropped it here.

My fascination with Bikaner’s Rampuria haveli led to some research and here’s what I have discovered. The Havelis in this part of the city were built many years ago by the noble families and merchants of Bikaner. Back in those days, Bikaner emerged as a business hub because it was on the trade route between Central and Western Asia.

If you’d like to photograph this epic landmark of Bikaner, then I’d suggest you visit this place at sunrise because it ends up being extremely crowded after that.

5) Eat a Royal Rajisthani Meal in Narendra Bhawan

Not only is Narendra Bhawan the best place to stay in Bikaner, but also is one of the most amazing places to experience a royal Rajasthani meal. This place was once the residence of Bikaner’s last Maharaja – Narendra Singh and the meals here have been designed keeping his memory in mind.

You can opt for a highly luxurious “museum dinner” that is served in the most exclusive and intricately designed dinner hall in Narendra Bhawan. For something simpler, you can head to the in-house restaurant – P&C and try Rajisthani maas curry.

For a simple and traditional meal, try the Bikaneri Crescent thali, which has a variety of veggie and meat curries with rice and roti. Don’t miss out Mad Hatter bakery’s heavenly desserts while you’re there.

6) Check Out the Miniature Art Studio

Rajasthan is famous for miniature paintings, a trend, which has supposedly started from Bikaner. Palaces like Junagarh fort, Laxmi Niwas and Lalgarh had rooms with intricate art patterns on walls and ceilings.

We couldn’t get enough of it so our guide took us to a very cool miniature art studio, just outside the Junagarh Fort. It also functions as an art school and is run by the Swami family. Not only you can buy this artwork at surprisingly low prices but also watch the artists create it.

This studio has around 4 – 5 small rooms where miniature artwork is displayed as per themes. There are birds, animals, people, scenes from Bikaner’s history, Hindu Gods and more – mostly drawn by Shiv Swami and Rajan Swami.

During our visit there, the artists also created miniature artwork on our nails. It was extremely detailed for its tiny size. They have also created a record in the Guinness world of record back in 2002 & 2003 for creating world’s smallest painting which is 5 X 3.5 cms and has 1220 leaves, 20 animals, 30 birds, 70 flowers and 20 aquatic animals. They don’t hold this record anymore.

7) Try Bikaner’s Famous Namkeen – Bikaji ki Bhujia

If you’re not from India, you probably don’t know what namkeen is. Namkeen in Hindi simply means salty and this word is also used while referring to salty Indian snacks. Namkeens are an important part of Indian culture. Bikaner’s namkeen – especially Bhujia is famous all over India for its taste. You should not only try it for yourself but should consider buying it as a gift for your friends too.

While I was in Bikaner, I got a chance to visit Bikaji Namkeen Factory and I carried back a namkeen hamper for my family. My family obviously loved it. 🙂

8) Visit Bhandasar Jain Temple and Admire the Mirror work

Bhandasar Jain Temple is in Bikaner’s old town and is surprisingly beautiful from the inside. This Jain temple is tiny and is decorated with intricate mirror work that has a hypnotic effect. There are many bright frescos on the walls and the ceiling that depict the lives of the Jain teachers.

The insides were refreshingly cool because of the white marble. Strangely the foundations of this temple have been made using ghee (clarified butter).

Bhandasar Jain Temple was built in the 15^th century and is one of the oldest buildings of Bikaner.

9) Explore Devi Kund Sagar – the Royal Crematorium

Visiting a crematorium may not be very high on anyone’s list but Bikaner’s Devi Kund Sagar is surely unique. It is an amazing place where you can admire architectural summitry.

The entry fee is just 5 rupees and you need to remove your shoes before stepping in. You can pick up a pair of disposable shoes at the entry area and wear it while exploring Devi Kund Sagar.

Inside the complex, you will find tombs of deceased members of Bikaji dynasty with “chhatris” around them. “Chhatri” is a Hindi word that means umbrella, used here to describe the shape of these cenotaphs. At first, these chhatris appeared to be the same but we soon noticed a pattern where the ones for women had footsteps printed outside.

10) Visit Lalgarh Palace and Shri Sadul Museum

Lalgarh is one of the newer palaces of Bikaner and was also made using red sandstones for Maharaja Ganga Singh of Bikaner. It is a three-story complex, which represents a mix of British as well as Architectural, style and is stretched across sprawling lawns.

It is now owned and run by his daughter Princess Leia.. oops I mean Princess Rajyashree Kumari.

Shri Sadul Museum is inside Lalgarh Palace, right after at the entry point. This museum displays several artifacts from Maharaja Sir Ganga Singh’s and his children’s lives.

The main building of Lalgarh Palace functions as a luxury heritage hotel. There are many lounges, an indoor swimming pool, a massive dining hall, guest suites, and most of it is covered with intricate artwork. You can either stay here or visit for a meal at Ranbanka Cafe and check out this palace from inside. Or you can simply visit Sri Sadul Museum.

11) Get a Taste of Bikaner’s Ultimate Luxury at Laxmi Niwas Palace

Laxmi Niwas Palace was once Maharaja Ganga Singh’s residential palace but is now a luxury hotel. Although this palace is smaller than Lalgarh, it is much more beautiful from inside.

My favorite thing about Rajasthani palaces is that they are built like havelis, with an open courtyard in the middle of the building. If you stand exactly in the center of Laxmi Niwas Palace’s courtyard, the symmetry all around will amaze you.

Along the courtyard, you will find conference rooms, a billiard room, guest suites, a highly luxurious dining hall, a restaurant and a path that goes outside to the swimming pool area.

I was here on several occasions on one of them; I got to check out the king and queen suites with an impressive view. If you want to experience the ultimate luxury of Bikaner, then you should stay in this hotel. If not, then at least try a meal in their restaurant where the head chef creates magic with meat kebabs and curries.

12) Spend Half a Day at Gajner Palace and Sanctuary

Yes, this is the fourth palace on this list but hey – Bikaner is the perfect place to experience Rajasthan’s royal life. Unlike the other places on this list, Gajner Palace is outside Bikaner.

It will take you approximately one hour to reaching Gajner Palace from the main Bikaner city but it is totally worth the effort. Plan your visit in such a way so that you can witness the sunset next to the lake with a few drinks and dinner. If you have more time, then try to go for a jeep safari to explore the adjoining Gajner sanctuary, which is beyond the lake.

13) Go Visit the Sand Dunes

Jaisalmer is one of the most popular travel destinations in Rajasthan for visiting the sand dunes, but not many people know that you can see them in Bikaner too. These sand dunes are a little outside the city and are not far from the Camel Research Centre (point 2), so you can do both these things together.

I will be honest with you – the Khuri Sand Dunes and Sam Sand Dunes near Jaisalmer are surely bigger. However, the smaller dunes in Bikaner also have a lot to offer and visiting them around sunset was an amazing experience.

14) Go to Bikaji Ki Tekri

Just like Devi Kund Sagar, Bikaji ki Tekri also has “chhatris” shaped cenotaphs but that’s where the similarity ends. Bikaner was created in 1488 by Rao Bikaji and Bikaji Ki Tekari is a tribute to him and his immediate successors. Rao Bikaji’s cenotaph was made with marble and the others were made using red sandstones.

In my opinion, there was something gloomy about this place. It was sad to see that the site that pays homage to the creator of the Bikaner city was not well maintained.

Moreover, this site also has inscription of medieval Indian social practice – Sati – which was performed here for two wives of Sri Rao Bikaji. Yes, this makes me shudder! If you don’t know what “Sati” is – then maybe it is a good thing.

If you want to visit Bikaji ki Tekri, you need to make advance arrangements and inform the guards of this place.

How to Reach Bikaner, Rajasthan

The easiest way to reach Bikaner is by train. You can do the train journey overnight from Delhi (or Gurgaon) on train number 12457 – Bikaner SuperFast Express and reach Bikaner early morning. This is the smartest and the most affordable way to reach Bikaner from North India.

Alternatively, you can also drive to Bikaner from Delhi, Agra, Jaipur and, Punjab. The condition of the road beyond Jaipur is pretty good. Another way of reaching Bikaner is by flying to the nearby Jodhpur (4-5 hours away) or Jaipur (6-7 hours away).

 

Weather in Bikaner and When to visit

The best time to visit Bikaner is from October to February. Rajasthan is extremely hot during the summer months and the temperature can go as high as 45 degrees. Winter months are pleasant but it can get surprisingly cold at night. I visited in April and it was very hot but thankfully I spent the hottest hours of the day indoors.

 

Where to Stay in Bikaner

One of the best ways to experience Bikaner is by staying in a haveli or a palace that was once the royal residence. The options are many and surprisingly are not expensive for the kind of luxury that they offer. Here are the places that I suggest you check out for staying in Bikaner –

Narendra Bhawan

Narendra Bhawan is one of the most newly renovated heritage hotels in Bikaner and it was once the grand residence of ex Maharaja of Bikaner. The interiors are extremely luxurious and vibrant in a style that’s ultra modern yet Maharaja-like.

Narendra Bhawan is the place where I stayed while I was in Bikaner. I ate several meals in the restaurant here and each was extremely delicious and memorable. The rooftop pool here is the perfect place to cool off from Bikaner’s heat in the evenings. They also offer several curated experiences to explore Bikaner like a Maharaja.

Read reviews on TripAdvisor 

Average price per night: $110 – $260 per night depending on the room and season.

Laxmi Niwas Palace

Laxmi Niwas Palace is much bigger as compared to Narendra Bhawan. There is not much difference in price if you compare both these hotels but the smaller Narendra Bhawan is more luxurious. Personally, I prefer Narendra Bhawan’s rooms and interiors more.

Read reviews on TripAdvisor 

Average price per night: $115 – $230 per night depending on the room and season.

Lalgarh Palace

If you want to stay in the largest palace of Bikaner then you should book a room at Lalgarh. This palace hotel features an indoor swimming pool, massive lawns, an elaborate dining hall and more.

Read reviews on TripAdvisor 

Average price per night: $102 – $230 per night depending on the room and season.

 

Gajner Palace Heritage Hotel

Gajner Palace isn’t inside Bikaner but is 30 km away. If you’re looking to get away from the main city then you’re going to love this place. Gajner Palace is next to a lake so you can be sure of spending amazing evenings next to it enjoying the sunset. This lakeside palace hotel is the perfect place for destination weddings and honeymoons.

Read reviews on TripAdvisor 

Average price per night: $120 per night depending on the room and season.

 

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